In the Neighbourhood

Montréal: Vive la difference!

In the early 1970s, Montréal’s Mayor Jean Drapeau, guardian of "good morals and morale," decided to clean up the downtown core by increasing police presence in gay establishments and forcing them to close their doors. The 1976 Olympic Games were fast approaching, and Drapeau was worried that the presence of these "dancing queens" might tarnish the image of his city. Some gay establishments held fast, but most packed up, having lost their operating permits. A page was turned; they had to go elsewhere.

Go east, young man!

Ousted from a neighbourhood they considered home, gay shopkeepers began to move east. In the early 80s, Priape was one of the first stores to open its doors in what was once a blue collar neighbourhood. Although no one knew it at the time, Priape’s arrival heralded the birth of the Village... since many others would follow suit. Mayors and mentalities have changed since Drapeau’s day. These days, Montréal’s mayor is proud to have one of North America’s most popular gay districts in the heart of his city. In fact, Montréal’s Village has one of the highest concentrations of gay businesses and establishments of any urban centre in the world.

The gay and lesbian community is no longer cast in an unfavourable light and is free to flourish in peace. The Village now runs from Rue Berri to Rue Papineau, west to east, and from Rue Viger up to Parc Lafontaine, south to north. Its main commercial corridor is Rue Sainte-Catherine. Take a stroll around the Village and you’ll discover charming and unusual spots, sheltered from the city’s hustle and bustle. The mayor is also proud of the fact that the Village contributes to the city’s image of tolerance and adds a touch of eccentricity, making Montréal an exceptional tourist destination.

Off the beaten path... or just offbeat?

These gates often open onto verdant courtyards or even rear tenements built where stables used to stand. A century ago, this was home to the workingmen who, each morning, would set out for their workshops or head downtown, which today is Old Montréal. Culture is held in high esteem in the Village. Usine C bears elegant witness to its working class past. The former factory, complete with smokestack, was once occupied by the Raymond confectionery and is now home to the CARBONE 14 theatre troupe, making it the symbol of Québec’s cultural avant-garde. Along with CARBONE 14, the Groupe de la Veillée was one of the first cultural establishments to set up shop in the Village with its Théâtre Prospero. The Village is also a happening spot for radio and television. In addition to Radio-Canada and Télé-Québec, you’ll find the TVA network, which has created Québec’s own "walk of fame" on the sidewalk of Rue Alexandre-DeSève; Céline Dion’s star, among others, shines brightly.

A window shopper’s dream

Party time!

There’s no lack of excuses to party here! Two events have put "Montréal on the map," to borrow one of Mayor Drapeau’s favourite expressions. One will be celebrating its 15th anniversary in 2005, the other its 13th. The older of the two, the Black & Blue Festival, has ensured Montréal a spot on the very select list of "circuit parties" - famous rave parties where a portion of the profits is given back to the gay and lesbian community. This week-long series of events and dance evenings organized by Village bars ends with Black, where the world’s top DJs get 12,000 dancers of every stripe moving in a wild frenzy. Then there’s Divers/Cité , which enjoys an international reputation thanks to Mado Lamotte and Madame Simone of the Cabaret à Mado. They travel around the world to promote Montréal and the emphasis the city places on diversity, particularly with the GLBT1 pride celebration, which takes place at the end of July. Outdoor shows and films... Rue Berri resembles a discotheque and is transformed into a giant dance floor immediately following the huge carnivalesque parade that attracts nearly a million spectators each year.

All night long...

From the early 20th century and up to the 50s, Montréal’s nightlife was legendary throughout North America. "My boy, the nights were endless," my dad used to say. Peggy Lee sang at the Lion d’Or, and Charles Aznavour wowed audiences at the Faisan Doré, now gone. All the big names came to perform in Montréal for the sheer fun of it. Today, young people flock here for the electronic rhythms. In fact, Montréal is a mecca for major DJs spinning electronic music. Most of them know the city thanks to Stereo, a discotheque boasting exceptional acoustics that was designed by sound whiz DJ Angel Morales, a New Yorker by birth and Montréaler by choice. This hot spot is what’s known as an after-hours club: it opens when the other clubs close and it doesn’t serve alcohol... but you can dance until noon! Right next door is Circus, which also features sensational international DJs. Be sure to consult the Village address book and agenda.

André Quenneville
2009-04-24