A taste for island life

The love boat

Don’t forget to set your watch to island time when you reach the gangway: it’s an hour later in the Maritimes. Goodbye, rush hour; see you later, 9-to-5; and so long, Montréal. This is what time it really is: time to swap the rat race for the rolling river. It’s also time to enjoy your welcome cocktail on Deck 6 as you get set to sail. Why, you’ll barely notice that you’ve cast off and are on your way...

Smooth sailing to a dream vacation

On Deck 7, Jack Johnson sings softly Good People, Where’d all the good people go? Why, to the islands, Jack. Islands bathed by the Gulf of St. Lawrence. You’d like them, Jack. You’d feel right at home. And on the Vacancier, you’d never be bored. The Vacancier? An immense ferry able to accommodate 200 cars and 500 passengers. The ship leaves the island of Montréal for other, more distant isles scattered like so many jewels in the Gulf of St. Lawrence: the Îles-de-la-Madeleine. A 1,300-km (810 mi.) voyage of discovery along the river and its enchanting banks.

Go with the flow

The St. Lawrence is a river of a thousand faces. From Montréal to the Îles-de-la-Madeleine, the great waterway goes from lake to river, fresh water to salt water, before merging with the Gulf and turning into sea. Its path is sprinkled with dozens of isles whose tall tales and astonishing wildlife diversity are yours to discover. Throughout your adventure, the ship’s interpretation centre will bring your journey to life as it reveals the river’s history and some of its many secrets.

Those of you who are lucky enough to board the Vacancier in the spring (end of March until mid-May) will cross the Lac Saint-Pierre heron colony, decreed a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2000. An unparalleled opportunity to see over 2,500 herons go a-courting in the trees and spread their wings over the shimmering waters. During the same period, the skies turn white as the migrating snow geese make their way home. Seeing is believing!

One thing leads to another, and with the changing seasons, the world around you transforms. From one migration to the next, life continues its endless cycle. The estuary, ocean-deep in places, sets the stage for great acts of comedy and drama. The humpback whale plays the buffoon, while the gigantic blue whale, timid and gracious, tender and maternal, shields her calf from the inquisitive, comical gaze of the beluga. From tiny plankton to mighty whale, the St. Lawrence simply teems with life.

Time to let down your hair…

A ship is a world unto itself. A microcosm where 500 individuals from every walk of life all share a common goal: to arrive safe and sound, and enjoy a good laugh without going overboard—so to speak! You’ve swapped downtown traffic for river traffic… now that’s what we call a sea change! The sensational Gertrude, salty, sassy and oh-so-glamorous, is a crowd-pleasing cross dresser born and bred on the islands. A real character with a biting wit, on the outbound journey she fills you in on the ways and mores of the islanders; and on your return, she already knows all the gossip. Her alter ego, Raymond Henri, livens up the dining room with his French repertoire, performed from his modest stool. Yes, yes, Jack, I know. “Je ne comprends pas français. So you’ll have to speak to me. Some other way (Belle).” But music—now, that you understand, Jack.

… and enjoy the good life!

Those who opt for the gourmet package can look forward to premium pampering. Besides savouring the sounds of the legendary Raymond, your taste buds will be in seventh heaven when you encounter the local cuisine: seafood, terrine de loup-marin and the delectable, locally produced Pied-de-vent cheese. All in all, a fine touch on the part of the CTMA, who’ve taken the expression “local flavour” literally! There’s only one regret: products from the À l’abri de la tempête microbrewery are available only on the islands.

A memorable island journey

As CTMA marketing director and Excursions en mer co-founder Nadine Blacquière so aptly puts it: “Magdalen islanders have one foot in Québec, the other in the Maritimes, and their hearts in the archipelago.” A truly fitting description. A little Acadian, a little Anglo, and a lot of French (the fleur-de-lis is worn with pride), Magdalen islanders are warm and welcoming. On your return, your heart will waver between happiness and nostalgia. A trip to the islands is never long enough…

André Quenneville
2009-05-18