Experience Québec
Trois-Rivières turns 375
Best-kept secret on the King’s Road!
In 2009, North America’s second-oldest French-speaking city fêtes its 375th birthday! Grab your camera and head off to explore a town that, like a good painting,combines great beauty with high culture! 
From the Platon to the Rue Des Forges, by way of the Manoir de Niverville, Turcotte terrace, Old Port, Ursuline convent, Hertel-Lafrenière house and De Gannes dwelling, Trois-Rivières is a treasure trove of history, architecture… and poetry! Like Plato, inspired by the muses
It all began on the Platon—an original name that, though it brings to mind the famous Greek philosopher, is actually a misnomer of the word peloton (ball), because this elevated site looked like a wool ball (peloton de laine). On this promontory, the Sieur de Laviolette and his men built their fort in 1634. From its 25-m (82-ft.) elevation, take a moment to admire the majestic St. Lawrence that brought the first habitants to the region. 
The Platon is also where the illustrious 17th-century soldier and seigneur Pierre Boucher defended the city against the Iroquois. Theatre troupe Les Barbares Obliques has been known to recreate the glorious feats of this man who courageously vanquished 600 Iroquois in 1653 but who, once appointed governor in 1663, was unable to face his mother-in-law in court! The lady in question, Jeanne Énard, was accused of illegally trading alcohol and running a house of ill repute in Cap-de-la-Madeleine. Unable to testify against her, Boucher stepped down and retired to Boucherville. An action that gave rise to murmurings that a man could take on 600 Iroquois, but not one mother-in-law! French architecture: military, patrician or to the manor born
Trois-Rivières thrived during the colonial period, as attested by two surviving manor houses from the era. The Manoir de Niverville (1668), located at 168 Rue Bonaventure, is currently home to the Trois-Rivières chamber of commerce; its magnificent garden has a statue of former Québec premier Maurice Duplessis,the man who gave the province its distinctive fleur-de-lys flag. The Manoir de Tonnancour (1725), located at 864 Rue des Ursulines and built for the family of the same name, was home to a King’s prosecutor, judge, quartermaster, merchant and landlord of several seigneuries. Today the building serves as an art gallery. Just across the street is Place d’armes, which boasts a cannon from the Crimean War (1853-1856). Those with an interest in more recent military history can visit the 1905 armoury, today the Musée du 12e régiment blindé de Trois-Rivières. 
Stroll further down the Rue des Ursulines toward the convent. On your right, at the corner of Rue Saint-Francois-Xavier, you’ll find Trois-Rivières’ oldest place of worship (1693), the St. James Anglican Church, formerly the Chapelle des Récollets. Head up Saint-Francois-Xavier, just a short distance from Rue des Ursulines, and stop at the blue house (1757). One of the last remaining wooden structures of the French period, it was cited by 18th-century Swedish botanist and traveller Pehr Kalm.
Retrace your footsteps, then turn left onto Rue des Ursulines. You can’t miss the two splendid mansions on your left. No. 802, the beautiful Hertel-Lafrenière house (1668), belonged to a famous family of military heroes. Crowned by superb chimneys and firebreaks, the house features an unusual staircase, and today serves as headquarters for the literary event Salon du livre de Trois Rivières. Right next door at No. 834, the Maison de Gannes (1756), which dates from the end of the French Regime, was once the property of a serviceman named Georges de GannesA prayer for the past in passing
Further along, where Rue des Ursulines takes a slight turn, you can admire the Chapelle des Ursulines in all its latter-day splendour. The building houses a museum that takes visitors on a voyage from 1697 to the present day. For 189 years, the 300 year-old building was the sole hospital (Hôtel-Dieu de Trois-Rivières) between Montréal and Québec City. Today it houses a girls’ school. The Ursuline nuns came from France and settled in Québec City before branching out to Trois-Rivières, where they were cloistered until 1965. How could one not love these cloisters, so steeped in peace, closed and fresh, wrote Guy de Maupassant. You, too, will surely be enraptured! 
Currently showing in the reception area is a temporary exhibition on handmade containers, Des contenants se dévoilent, which continues until February 1, 2009. The next show will focus on funeral rites. A guided tour of the site reveals Luigi Capello’s superb fresco in the chapel dome. In July and August, you can also wander through the building’s corridors and see the “staircase of reconciliation” that was born of an architectural error! If you’re a fan of religious buildings, be sure to see the cathédrale de l’Assomption . and Our Lady of the Cape Shrine as well.
Forging a continent: iron and fur
From the Ursuline convent, go back the way you came, then take Rue Saint François-Xavier. Look to the left and admire the monument dedicated to the city’s great explorers. Pierre Gaultier de Varennes and LaVérendrye are credited with discovering the Canadian Rockies; while Pierre-Esprit de Radisson and Médart Chouart des Groseillers claimed Lake Superior for France. They also explored Hudson’s Bay, eventually founding the Hudson’s Bay Company… for the British Crown. 
History buffs who want to relive this glorious period will be pleased to know that the city holds a Rendez-vous des coureurs des bois (meeting of the fur traders) each July. Or, if you’re a fan of storytelling, the city also presents the Festival de contes et légendes de Trois-Rivières each September. And if you’re dying to know more about traditional crafts and trades, head to the Forges du Saint-Maurice, which offers up historical talks each Sunday. .
The last big festivities of Trois-Rivières occurred in 1984, and ever since the city became a cultural centre. Come over in Trois-Rivières and let’s have a party together for the 375th of the city ! (click on the map to see the city's nice places to visit )
Sylvain Lacoursière
2009-05-18
