The logging camps of yore
I’m a lumberjack and I’m okay!
His feet frozen, his long beard coated with ice as he marched into the vast forests of the Mauricie, Abitibi, Outaouais and other regions Québec, the farmer resumed his annual winter migration that would turn him into a lumberjack throughout the long cold months. Tim-ber-r-r! Welcome to a 19th-century logging camp!
Now you can relive the lives and times of those legendary men in plaid flannel shirts (the lumberjacks!). The one and only Musée du bûcheron de Grandes-Piles provides the most complete experience. With over 20 different buildings, the site recreates a logging camp in detail to give visitors a better understanding of this lifestyle that was so prevalent in the 19th century. A guide in period costume welcomes you and proceeds to demystify camp life. What’s cookin’?
One building in particular had the power to make or break the camp’s reputation: the cookhouse! Since logging was generally reserved for the male members of the population, logging camps were typically devoid of women, with the exception of one: the foreman’s wife . The meal quality could certainly be said to have made the men drool... especially at dinnertime. A camp’s standing often depended closely on its cook and the ability to keep the men—and their stomachs—happy.
Twice-turned lice
A visit to the bunkhouse makes the rigours of camp life all too easy to imagine. Deep in the forest, bugs are legion, which meant that the camps were invariably infested with lice. At bedtime, the only remotely effective way of dealing with the pests was to turn your clothes inside out. If you managed to fall asleep before the lice could work their way back through the fabric, you might get a good night’s rest. All in all, a logger had a pretty hard time sleeping like a... log!

Saturday night fever
Your guide explains that, while camp life was hard, the loggers also knew how to play. Each Saturday night, the eve before Sunday’s day of rest, they enjoyed games of skill like arm-wrestling, sang songs and told stories. Great Québec legends like the Chasse-galerie (“bewitched canoe”—see box) were born of those nights. However, none of the fun was fuelled by alcohol, since drinking was strictly forbidden. No boozing in the bush! span>
Lumberjack Idol
One of the many anecdotes related by your guide: each night, the foreman, like a holiday camp activity leader, would announce each man’s performance. Those who cut the most trees were congratulated, while the others endured the taunts of their peers. But no man was let go—and anyone who deserted risked being fined, or even sent to jail! At any rate, nobody was paid until the end of winter...
The log-driver’s waltz
The job of log driving was the logical step for many loggers at the end of winter. Visit the drivers’ cabin and imagine yourself on the Saint-Maurice, stepping from floating log to floating log (often called pitounes—see box), trying to prevent logjams. The job, which required great agility, was extremely dangerous. Besides the risk of hypothermia, it was common for limbs to be crushed or blown off, since dynamite was sometimes used to break up the logjams. The thrills of log driving can be experienced today, albeit in a much safer form: whitewater rafting! Unlike the legend, your vessel probably won’t take to the skies; but you will fly through the water.
Still not out of the woods...
...even though you’re in the city. Just a few kilometres from the Grande Piles museum, the Old Port of Trois-Rivières harbours the Exhibition Centre on the Pulp and Paper Industry (CEIPP), which provides another window into this action-packed métier. In seeing the other side of the coin—which is to say, pulp and paper production—you’ll gain a better understanding of the work carried out by the loggers. The economics of the trade are lavishly explained on many museum panels.
Elsewhere in Québec
In the Outaouais region, home to Jos Montferrand, the most famous lumberjack in the Americas (see box), the Canadian Museum of Civilization has reproduced a logging camp. Over in Abitibi, the city of La Sarre has a Centre d’interprétation en foresterie that, each summer, offers complete tours of a logging camp as it was in the 1930s. On the agenda: replicas of camp interiors, themed tableaux, forestry tools and a maquette of a sawmill.
With all of these anecdotes and legends, there’s no doubt about it: visiting a logging camp is a journey into Québec’s mythical past. You’ll find that learning the colourful language, lifestyle and ways of the loggers is as easy as... falling off a log!
| La chasse-galerie |
Written by Honoré Beaugrand, the tale of the Chasse-galérie (enchanted canoe) refers to a group of Outaouais loggers who, one night, made a deal with the Devil. The bargain would let them visit their wives and girlfriends in Montréal by flying canoe, for the duration of one night (New Year’s Eve). But they had to be back at camp by 6 a.m., or else the Devil would take possession of their souls. Once at their destination, the men decided to have a drink. They proceeded to get blind drunk on whisky blanc (moonshine). As they travelled from place to place, the canoe zigzagged ever more precariously. It should be pointed out that, at the time, there was no penalty for driving your flying canoe under the influence... Eventually, the canoe ploughed straight into tree, dumping all the men into a snow bank. They emerged safe and sound, but each had learned his lesson. At the La Ronde amusement park, the ride known as La Pitoune celebrates this most famous of Québec folk tales with a sculpture featuring lumberjacks, a flying canoe and the Devil. |
| Hurry to happy town! |
The words “déguédine” and “pitoune” are much used in Québec popular culture. However, many people are unaware that both words have Anglo-Saxon roots. Déguédine, which means “hurry up,” comes from the English “dig it in”, an order given by the foreman to have a logger dig around a tree before cutting it down. Pitoune, in turn, is even more common. The official term used to describe logs floating down the river, pitoune is a deformation of the English “happy town”—the foreman’s name for the town in which he could stay, as opposed to having to stay in camp all winter, like the loggers. Since town was somewhere one could meet ladies, pitoune has also come to mean “pretty girl”. |
Sylvain Lacoursière
Photos: Photos: Musée du Bucheron de Grande Piles, Clermont Blais and Tourisme Mauricie
2009-02-24




Experience Québec
Written by Honoré Beaugrand, the tale of the Chasse-galérie (enchanted canoe) refers to a group of Outaouais loggers who, one night, made a deal with the Devil. The bargain would let them visit their wives and girlfriends in Montréal by flying canoe, for the duration of one night (New Year’s Eve). But they had to be back at camp by 6 a.m., or else the Devil would take possession of their souls.
Pitoune, in turn, is even more common. The official term used to describe logs floating down the river, pitoune is a deformation of the English “happy town”—the foreman’s name for the town in which he could stay, as opposed to having to stay in camp all winter, like the loggers. Since town was somewhere one could meet ladies, pitoune has also come to mean “pretty girl”.