Experience Québec
Discoveries
Island life and lore
A Montrealer and island-dweller by birth, I spent five of my teenage years at Cacouna, land of the porcupine. When the autumn equinox was nigh, we’d set out on a boat to go feather-hunting: looking for eiders. The islands we roamed about were the Rouge, Blanche, aux Lièvres or l’Eau-de-vie. Embark now on a journey to some of Quebec’s islands, and hear their tales.
Since almost one-third of the province’s inhabitants are island-dwellers, one out of every three Quebecers has an island story to tell. Their tales might be urban, continental or maritime, but they are always tinged with an island element. The St. Lawrence River flows mightily over 1,600 km around 3,000 islands, 500 of them in Quebec. It would take more than a lifetime to explore them all. So for the ones we missed, use your imagination!
Maritime memories
Quebec’s maritime islands, lapped by the salt waters of the Atlantic Ocean as it drains into the river, are steeped in a particular flavour and an old-world charm. Like any other island, they are keepers of the memory of the river and their inhabitants, lands of discoveries and preserved histories. Here are a few...
Feather-hunting
It was on the islands in the Lower St. Lawrence region(across from Rivière-du-Loup) that we collected eider down. The down is still gathered by Société Duvetnor, which has owned the islands since 1979. Eider down sales help the corporation finance its mandate, which is to protect these pockets of land and educate visitors about them. Because of Duvetnor, some of the isles offer unique eco-tourism experiences. For example: you can spend a night in the lighthouse on îles du Pot-à-l’Eau-de-Vie. The 140-year-old guardian of the seas has been completely restored and shines its beacon every night over the St. Lawrence.
On île aux Lièvres, which is criss-crossed by 40 km of paths, the corporation offers sojourns in cottages or wilderness camping. Someone may tell you the story of the smugglers who, during Prohibition, ferried scotch and whiskey over the island, to the delight of our thirsty friends in the United States.Land of peace
There is always someone exploring the walking trails on île Verte. The only island to be inhabited year-round in the Bas-Saint-Laurent region, with a tiny population of just 40 people, has a wealth of stories to share about this part of the world. A heaven for cyclists and hikers, île Verte also offers nights in the lighthouse - the oldest in Quebec, built in 1809 - and the vision of the setting sun over the mountains of the north shore will stay with you forever.Walking on water
Each year toward the end of July and in early August, these islanders organize a river crossing on the Sentier de la Bouette (literally, the "mud path"). Registration is in June (418-898-4055) and the event attracts nearly 500 people each year. What a singular way to walk on water!
Jonas and the whales
I wonder if Jonas, who wanted to travel, had Basque blood in his veins? One thing’s for sure, we know about his whale. And in Quebec when you say Basque, you’re saying whales! Île aux Basques, off the shores of Trois-Pistoles, owes its name to those fierce hunters who were the sailors of the 16th century.On this island inhabited for more than 2,000 years by Native Indians, we can see the ancient ovens used to extract whale oil by the Ahabs of the New World, who were always looking for their own Moby Dick. Owned by Société Provancher, the island is a highly protected heritage site. A tour organized by the corporation lasts three hours, and the guide will tell you stories worthy of a Herman Melville novel!
L’île au massacre: Death island
A tragic story is part of the history of Parc national du Bic. At the turn of the 16th century the Micmacs, a nomadic Native people, established a base camp by the Bic Bay. Discovered by their Iroquois enemies, they took refuge in a cave on one of the isles. When the tide was high, the Iroquois swarmed the island, lit a fire at the mouth of the cave, and asphyxiated the 50-odd families hiding inside. Five Micmacs survived to tell the tale and it was handed down over generations. They say that at night ghosts haunt the shores and their cries mingle with the sound of the crashing ocean waves...
Bic remembers the past but it lives in the present. The national park reserves many activities for anyone who loves wildlife and marine flora. The best way to learn about the islands and isles of the area is by kayak. Meet the folks who live there, observe the colonies of seals, bask in a landscape like no other. Or make your own discoveries by foot on or a bicycle.Le Québec maritime
Québec Maritime is a memory lodged in the collective consciousness and its islands are places where imagination and history go hand in hand. Exploration of them is like travelling through time. Many other islands have their own stories. So hoist the sails, matey, and set a course for the horizon.
| Landlubbers and sailors, here are a few ports of call |
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André Quenneville
Photos: Société Duvetnor, Sépaq, Société Provancher, Tourisme Québec
2008-04-04
