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Reveal or conceal?

From the unseen ankle to the tell-all thong


Dress with evening bodice, and separate day bodice,1874. Goft of the Estate of Clara C. Benson.By not revealing all, are we not, somehow, shrouding ourselves in mystery? Obscuring one’s ankle with a resplendent hoop skirt does not reflect a falsehood, but rather a 19th-century fantasy! Conversely, heaving bosoms and plunging necklines didn’t garner a second glance, being the norm among the bourgeois society ladies of the day. Surprised? Take in the Reveal or Conceal? exhibition at the McCord Museum and learn even more about women’s fashion throughout the ages.

Bus stop, downtown Montreal (detail), about 1968. Photograph by David Wallace Marvin.Elizabeth I was likely the precursor to the women’s fashion that would be all the rage four centuries later. Her getups and her vanity were legendary. Fashion in the 19th century was simply a natural extension of the example she set. And yet, there’s nothing linear about fashion: just as morals change, what’s indecent one day may turn out to be completely acceptable the next, and vice versa. And let’s not forget that styles were subject to the Church and its moods, financial means, and the dictates of weather!

Hypersexualization… circa 1920

More info on this  photo...In a riveting parallel between two permissive periods, the exhibition prompts us to compare the Roaring Twenties (1920-1929) with the years surrounding the Sexual Revolution (1960 1969). An initial groundbreaking move during the inter-war era saw women showing off their legs and feet—except at balls, receptions and, of course, in church. In the 1930s, the Québec Catholic League came up with its own swimsuit. Needless to say, the garment covers a great deal, but, surprisingly, it hugs the body in a way that is quite cute and sexy!

Here today, gone tomorrow…


Unidentified woman in bathing suit on Ontario beach, late 1940s, gift of M.Paul NoëlThe bikini appeared in 1946 and, 18 years later, the monokini hit the beaches. But Rudi Gernreich’s design didn’t take off, as consumers continued to prefer the two piece. The textile revolution, heralded by the development of plastic derived elastane, or “spandex”, was reminiscent of the revolution brought on by knit fabric in the 20s: both materials cling to the body.






And who wears the pants in your house?


Loose bloomers, end of 19th century.This question, which reflects a modern sensibility, would have seemed hare-brained just a few decades ago. Not because the missus was rarely the dynamic half of the couple—far from it—but rather because women did not wear pants to any widespread degree before the 1970s! Of course, ladies’ pantaloons existed long before, since 1850 in fact, when Amelia Bloomer created “loose bloomers”! But she would be ridiculed, and, a century later, when women’s shorts first appeared, Chatelaine magazine proclaimed as late as 1943 that “Women were not meant to wear pants.”

Coraline Corset, ''FLexible hip'' model, 1882-1885, Label : Warner Bros
These anecdotes are merely the outer layer of what you will learn from the exhibition. This is just a brief overview, for I would be remiss if I concealed everything from you... Nevertheless, I am revealing only the bare basics, to ensure your desire to uncover the rest remains intact! 

So don’t miss this chance to indulge that slightly voyeuristic side of your nature and catch a glimpse of this striptease of women’s fashion that is Reveal or Conceal?, running until January 18, 2009 at the McCord Museum. .



Inuit art
The McCord Museum is also featuring the exhibition entitled Inuit - A Selection of Works from the Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec. In keeping with its mission to foster encounters between cultures and communities, and to ensure the dissemination and promotion of Canadian heritage, the McCord Museum is proud to showcase 110 sculptures, including 86 miniatures, from the prestigious Brousseau Inuit Art Collection. Until October 14, 2008.

Sylvain Lacoursière
Photos: Photos: Musée McCord
2008-09-08

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