Half of these former sentinels towering over the St. Lawrence River are still in operation, but transformed into museums or lodgings. Discover them along the Lighthouse Trail (Route des Phares). You might be able to spend the night in one of them. Falling asleep to the aroma of the salty air, the music of the singing birds, the gentle waves and, with a bit of luck, the blowing whales is happiness undiluted.